You go home?

I’m sitting in the Bangkok airport (the largest in Asia, did you know?) feeling excited about returning to the U.S. but rather melancholy to leave the country I’ve called home for the last 7+ months. Wow, has it really only been 7½ months? The time has gone by relatively quickly, but at the same time, I feel like I’ve been able to do so much and see so many places that it’s hard to fathom it all happened in well under a year.

For those of you who are familiar with the travel blog genre, you probably know that many travelers close out their blogs with a final post describing what they’ll miss most about their home away from home and what they are looking forward to upon returning to their native land. So, for lack of originality, and because I have time to kill before my flight departs, I will follow suit and make a list of my own.

WHAT I’LL MISS ABOUT THAILAND:

- Khao Neow Ma Muang (Mango and sticky rice, AKA a bit of heaven on earth)

- The variety, availability, and low cost of fresh fruit

- Not understanding most of what’s being said around me (I find it rather mentally soothing not to be distracted by extraneous conversation)

- Being offered rides from random strangers when I’m walking along the road and feeling safe about accepting

- Eating outside year-round

- The “mai pen rai” (no worries, not a big deal) attitude practiced by nearly every Thai person

- Meals for less than $1

- The lack of germ phobias and the rigid U.S. uptightness about cleanliness, safety, etc. (I’ll admit that sometimes I don’t always like this)

WHAT I’M LOOKING FORWARD TO:

- Anonymity. Being able to blend into a crowd, especially after living in Isaan (the Northeast), where I’m pretty sure there are maybe 2 other female farang (Westerners) (possibly an exaggeration, but really, it’s beyond rare to see another white girl there)

- CHEESE

- Green salads. A rare find in Thailand, and very expensive. Plus they always seem to come with a thick, sweet mayonnaise “dressing.” Mmmm (not)

- Driving a car

- Speaking and being understood

- CHEESE

- Seasons. Thailand has “seasons” – rainy, hot, and winter, winter meaning 80 degree temps, not the usual 90s/100s. Although it’ll be a few months, I cannot wait for a chilly fall and cold winter (I know all the Midwesterners are groaning right now after coming out of a long, bitter winter!)

- CHEEEESE

- Seeing all, or most anyway, of your lovely faces

Later, Thailand.

Surprise!

Remember when I said I’m coming home June 19? Well, the date has changed AGAIN (for the fifth time, no joke). But this time I’m going the other direction. Instead of pushing it back later, I’m coming home nearly three weeks sooner – Saturday, May 30 to be exact.

I originally extended my stay in Thailand through mid-June because I planned to attend a meditation retreat. Most unfortunately, the retreat has been canceled due to building renovation (I guess drilling, hammering, and hacking isn’t very conducive to introductory meditation). So, I figured why not save a little dough and come back early? Perhaps I won’t have any credit card debt upon return after all!

Why go it alone?

As a mostly lone traveler, I’m used to being asked, “why are you traveling by yourself?” I imagine some of you readers question my decision to go solo as well. Isn’t it lonely? Isn’t it intimidating? Isn’t it boring? Sometimes yes, mostly no.

I’m traveling “stag” for several reasons. The primary and admittedly very selfish reason: I like being able to do whatever I want wherever I want whenever I want. I figure this is probably the only time in my life that I can be totally self-indulgent with minimal responsibilities. I won’t deny that there are days when I think, “ugh, I wish someone else could make decisions and do the planning,” but for the most part, I like doing it myself. In fact, I’ve gotten so used to planning my day totally around me that when I do meet other travelers and spend the day or days together, I usually cannot wait to go back to traveling alone again. I’ve met other solo travelers with similar sentiments. One girl, despite being incredibly social and outgoing, told me she loves traveling by herself so much that she doesn’t think she’ll ever be able to travel with people again. What?? Even I haven’t converted that much. I’ll definitely still be able to traverse the globe with family or friends down the road.

Another reason for going it alone is the increased opportunity for cultural immersion. That sounds very college essay-esque. Really, though, I think it's easier to get to know a culture when you're by yourself versus with one or more your "own kind." When I'm with other Westerners, I find myself falling prey to the Western safety bubble. Don't get me wrong, I definitely enjoy, and sometimes need, a bit of time with folks who can speak advanced English, groan at the sight of white rice, and don't think it's the least bit odd to leave home for a while to see other places. Ultimately, though, I tend not to get as good a feel for the country I'm visiting when I'm with fellow Westernites. Locals approach me far more when I'm "table for one" status. They LOVE to strike up conversation, if for no other reason than to figure out why a young, white female is traveling alone.

Lastly, traveling companionless allows for a lot of personal reflection, growth, etc. (gag, sounds sooo cliché!) I’m still fairly clueless as to what I want to do in “real life” (not this alternate reality land), but I’m convinced that this time away will eventually lend insight into what really excites me, drives me, and interests me most. And I really am learning more about myself – the good and the bad. I’ve discovered that sometimes it’s not until you are put in uncomfortable situations that your true colors are revealed. And sometimes those colors aren’t always what you want them to be. Ok, I’m beginning to babble.

Anyway, those are a few of the many reasons I’m choosing to travel mostly independently. One of the few downsides of going solo, however, is the lack of pictures with people on my camera. I’m all for scenic snapshots, but doesn’t everyone agree that a photo album with ONLY landscapes and monuments gets a little dull? Maybe I can crop some heads in or something to spice ‘em up a little. Either that, or just be prepared to yawn your way through hundreds of uninteresting pictures.

P.S. I just read through this entry and I think it comes off a little pretentious or something. Don't worry, I promise I won't come back one of those young, 20-somethings who thinks (s)he has life figured out after just a few short months living abroad. I've met my fair share of them along the trail. One guy actually used the word "wisdom" when referring to himself. And he was maybe 24. What.

Escape to Singapore

Before arriving in Singapore late Saturday night, I really knew very little about the small island pocketed between Malaysia and Indonesia. In fact, I wasn’t even sure if Singapore was an independent nation or just an annex of Malaysia. (Well, I did do a bit of research the couple weeks leading up to my visit, but for most of my life, I wasn’t familiar with Singapore’s political standing). Now, after spending approximately 40 hours and counting in this beautiful country, I am astonished by how little I knew when Singapore is in fact such a unique place.

What strikes me most is the city’s immaculate state of cleanliness and order. Never have I visited such a green, litter-free environment in an urban setting. I’ve walked all over the city the past two days and I can count on one hand the number of pieces of trash I’ve seen on the ground, including cigarette butts. Singapore is also incredibly lush and green. Perfectly manicured lawns and tropical foliage abound on every street, even amongst mile-high sky scrapers and small, decrepit shops (though there aren’t many of the latter – most buildings are new and massive).

I also appreciate the country’s structure and order. There are rules, and people follow them (unlike most Southeast Asian countries). For instance, cars actually stop at red lights, making it safe and easy for pedestrians to cross the street - whereas in Thailand, Vietnam, and Laos, crossing the road can be potentially life-threatening. People don’t spit in public (one of my biggest pet peeves) because they could face up to $1000 in fines if they’re caught. Oh, and I got the latest scoop on chewing gum. Apparently it is now legal to chew gum, however stores can only carry sugar-free gum. And you must dispose of used gum in the trash can and only the trash can.

What else is interesting about Singapore? It’s very multi-cultural. There are four national languages – English, Chinese, Malay, and Tamil (Indian dialect). As you might guess, that means the cultural demographics are all over the place. I’ve explored several parts of the city, including Little India, Arab Street, and Chinatown. Each district offers fabulous food and shopping. And then there’s Orchard Road. Home to just about every clothing and accessory store under the sun, Orchard Road is the shopping hub of Singapore, or perhaps Southeast Asia, or maybe even all of Asia! Never have I seen so many monstrous shopping malls all on one, tree-lined boulevard. They house designer labels such as Prada, Gucci, Dolce and Gabbana, Armani, and Versace. I’m not big on clothes, especially designer clothes, so this doesn’t excite me like a T.J. Maxx or Walgreens would, but it’s interesting to observe the people who can afford to patronize these stores.

Being in Singapore has made me realize that I miss home, or just the West in general, more than I thought. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve loved my time in Thailand and its neighboring countries, but as much as I think I don’t mind the absence of order, structure, recycling, the law, toilets that can accommodate toilet paper, the English language, and drinkable tap water, my heart does in fact long for these Western conveniences. This 3½-day Singapore get-away is the perfect way to begin transitioning back into Western-mode. Until then, it’s back to Thailand to enjoy some of the country’s finest beaches and islands in the south!

Only a hostel in Southeast Asia would post a “no durians” sign (the durian is a tropical fruit with a particularly strong, sometimes deemed offensive, odor)

I thought this poster circa 1993 was too great not to capture on camera. I’m staying at the YMCA Singapore Hostel, hence the religious undertones. Clearly this photo is a self-portrait. I tried to retake it so my entire face would be in the frame, but my camera pooped out on me before I got the chance.

Visakha Puja

Do you know what it means? Yeah, neither did I until yesterday when I witnessed several ceremonies, celebrations, and processions all across Luang Prabang, Laos. Visakha Puja might be best translated as “Buddha Day” – a day recognizing the Buddha’s birth, enlightenment, and passing away. Celebrated by Buddhists across the globe, Visakha Puja falls on the 6^th lunar month every year and provides an opportunity for monks and other devout Buddhists to pay their respects to Buddha. At dusk, several wats (temples) are lined with candles, and call-and-response chanting sounds from the main temple. The evening of Visakha Puja, I was eating dinner opposite one of the larger wats in town and witnessed a large group of monks, locals, and a few tourists processing around the temple with candles in hand. I tried to capture this on video, but unfortunately the quality is very poor and really doesn’t reflect the magic and tranquility of the evening.

As I referenced earlier, I’m currently in Laos. Perhaps one of the most picturesque towns on the planet, Luang Prabang is postcard perfect. Really. There are few other places I’ve been with so much loveliness and appeal. The entire town is a UNESCO World Heritage site, a testament to its historical charm. I love the guesthouse where I’m staying despite my closet-sized room, the intermittent availability of water, and the daily 4:00 a.m. drumming from the monks across the street. It might sound like I’m joking, but I’m serious – I really do like my room. It has such a happy aura to it. In fact, it may be my most favorite place I’ve stayed in Southeast Asia, although I wouldn’t mind the absence of the 4:00 a.m. drumming. The monks use big base drums outside, along with clangy cymbal-like instruments, and the noise is impossible to block out, even with the windows shut and a pillow over my head. I’m not sure what the significance of this ritual is. Maybe if I figure it out, I’ll begin to appreciate the 20 minutes of pulsating rhythmic thuds each morning.

My stay in Laos is a relatively short one – just shy of a week. I’d like to see more of the countryside, but there are so many other places still waiting to be explored, including…Singapore! Next weekend I’m headed to the land where chewing gum is outlawed (except for gum with therapeutic value…what??). I’ll only be there a very short while because Singapore is wayyy expensive compared to the rest of Southeast Asia.

One other piece of news: I’ve finally chosen a departure date that I believe I’ll actually stick to: Friday, June 19. I depart Bangkok at 6:50 a.m. and touch down in Chicago at 2:20 p.m. Wow, in just 7.5 hours I can fly half-way around the world, including a layover in Tokyo. (Not really, the 12-hour time difference throws things off.) Can’t wait to see all you back home!

Next Stop: Laos

As the title indicates, I’m headed for Laos in a couple days. I’m really excited to visit what I hear is an absolutely beautiful and still relatively untouched part of the world. Laos only opened its borders to tourists about 15 years ago. I guess there were some exceptions (usually involving money, official business, etc.) but for the most part, the average traveler wasn’t allowed in prior to the early 90s. Several people have told me, “visit as soon as you can before the tourism industry explodes and spoils Laos’ natural beauty.” I might already be a little late, but I’m glad to be visiting at all.

My plans after Laos are still somewhat up in the air. I tend to change my mind about where I’m going on a daily basis, so there isn’t much point divulging my tentative plans right now, as they’re likely to change anyway. That being said, some of you back home are probably wondering when I’m returning to the U.S. of A. since I continually throw out wishy washy dates (or just try to dodge the question completely). Thanks to a very flexible plane ticket and a father who’s willing to call United every other week to change my departure date, I’ve been able to avoid having to make any real, concrete plans. I can say that, as of now (assuming I don’t go totally broke in the meantime) I plan to board a Chicago-bound plane in mid-June. Now don’t go marking your calendars in dark pen or anything. Probably best to stick with light pencil, or better yet, chalk. When things are finally set in place, I’ll be sure to let you know it’s safe to whip out that Sharpie.

Pai, the happiest place on Earth...

…at least that’s what I’d been hearing from fellow teacher friends and travelers for several months now. So, last weekend I decided it was high time I check this Pai place out for myself. I hopped on a minibus in Chiang Mai and braved the 3+ hour ride consisting of 762 mountainous turns and curves along the way (yes, someone has actually counted) without getting motion sickness once, thank goodness. (Unfortunately another poor girl in the van did)

Pai, meaning “escape” in the Shan language (an ethnic minority group in northwest Thailand), is a tiny town set amongst the mountains in Mae Hong Son province in northern Thailand, not too far from the Burmese border. It’s a rather multi-cultural place even without the mostly young, international tourists roaming the streets. Several ethnic hill tribe groups reside in the nearby mountains, and there is a strong Shan and Muslim presence in town. Despite the myriad ethnic groups, everyone seems to get along peacefully in this sleepy little town.

I think Pai is so popular with backpackers because not only does it provide breathtaking views of the lush mountainside and is just a short motorbike ride away from picturesque hot springs and waterfalls, but the town itself caters to a backpacker’s every need, want, and desire. Within Pai’s three-block radius, backpacker staples such as laundry, internet, used book exchange(s), and fresh coffee abound. Oh and not to mention the ubiquitous tattoo parlor(s), massage studio(s), and tiki bar(s) serving organic food by day and cheap beer by night, with oversized cushions on the floor for a proper “chill-out” experience.

I can’t help but feel like it’s all a little fake. It’s certainly not authentically Thai to eat yogurt and muesli at a restaurant patronized by mostly white people with dreadlocks and piercings while Jack Johnson plays softly in the background. It’s like Disneyland - where the shops, restaurants, and rides are designed to purely entertain. Space Mountain and Mickey ears aren’t real life, though. Right now, I’m in Pailand.

Despite this alternate reality, I’m enjoying, if not a little guiltily, my time here. It’s the start of low season (meaning fewer tourists), so guesthouse rates are significantly cheaper. I’m paying just under $6/night for my room. Actually even less when I shared with a Canadian girl I met on my bus over here (she has since moved on). The room is by no means luxurious, but it’s clean, sits among tropical foliage, and boasts lovely views of the Pai River. And they provide free bananas. Can’t ask for much more.

So, is Pai the happiest place on Earth? I don’t think so, although I won’t deny that its charm and slow-paced, laidback lifestyle get under your skin in a good way. Like under Danny’s skin, a chap from England whose 4-day visit last July turned into an indefinite stay in Pai. Or under Uri’s skin, an Israeli fellow who just postponed his travels in southern Thailand to hang out here a while longer. I’ve considered staying longer, too, but there’s still so much ground in Thailand and beyond that I have yet to cover that I think it’s time to move it on out in the next day or two. Until then, I’ll continue to enjoy every ounce of Pai goodness, real or not.