Have you eaten?

In Thailand, people like to eat. They also like to make sure people around them eat. I think the second most frequently asked question in this country is “gin khao rue yang?” or “have you eaten yet?” Interestingly, “khao” means “rice,” so the literal translation is “eat rice yet?” I think this finely illustrates the significance of rice in Thai cuisine. It is the staple, the rock, the heart and soul of breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Dessert, too.

I am living in the Northeast, aka Isaan, which is known for its own cuisine. Isaan food is somewhat like traditional Thai but spicier, meatier, and what I deem more earthy. The Northeast is the poorest region of Thailand, therefore Northeasterners are generally quite resourceful and self-sustaining. They eat what is available: rice, fruits, vegetables, meats (including dog, rat, and bat), and insects. Snack time can include bamboo worm, mole crickets, and red ant larvae (actually that last one is used mostly for seasoning, not snacking). I’ve steered clear of the bugs, partially because they’re not as readily available in Khaowong, and partially because I don’t think I could stomach them without gagging.

A lot of people have asked what I eat everyday and I have a difficult time answering because I don’t know what I’m eating a lot of the time. Until being in Thailand, I had never seen a lot of the fruits and vegetables I’m currently consuming, and some of them don’t even have English names. I will do my best, however, to describe my daily intake.

BREAKFAST

Because I live at a boarding school, I am provided three free meals seven days a week. It is by no means 5-star cuisine, however I am incredibly grateful to get free meals ‘round the clock. Breakfast usually consists of rice with some type of curry or brothy something with meat and vegetables. I typically skip breakfast because 1) I’m not very hungry at 7:00 a.m. and 2) I haven’t yet adjusted to eating dinner for breakfast. I’m not sure I ever will.

LUNCH

I eat lunch in the “canteen” (aka cafeteria). I usually opt for rice with a mixture of veggies (carrots, onions, mushrooms, cooked leafy greens, etc.) and meat (sometimes chicken, pork, beef, I don’t know) with a fried egg. Other days I go for noodles. Lately they’ve been served in a very thick, gelatin-like broth, though, so I’ve been leaning towards my old standby, rice and co.

DINNER

Dinner is pretty much like lunch, maybe a little more day-to-day variation. Ground meat salads, shredded bamboo shoot, spicy papaya salad, more meats in broths with root vegetables, fish with the eyeballs still intact. Everything is always highly seasoned and highly SPICY.

STREET VENDORS

There is a plethora of street cuisine available on every corner in Thailand. Roasted pork with sticky rice, mystery dumplings (I’ve grown rather fond of these), lots of other meats on skewers, fried and roasted chicken, made-to-order fried rice with squid, pad thai (although I think this dish is more popular among foreigners than locals). Everything is also incredibly cheap. I can get a skewer of dumplings for 5 baht – about 15 cents. A large bunch of bananas from the market costs 15 baht – 45 cents. A full-out meal usually costs no more than $1.

So, in a very rough nutshell, that’s food in Northeast Thailand. I realize I haven’t even touched on dessert. Maybe we’ll save that for another day.